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DEEPCOOL Mid Tower Case DEEPCOOL Genome 2


The DeepCool Genome 2 is quite the interesting beast! I’m sure you’ve read many reviews from people who loved it or hated it. First thing first is to squash both of those as this review is a totally new concept. Let’s talk about the case, the components, the good, the bad and the average from a PC modder’s point of view. The photos are ordered to coincide with my review.

When the box first arrived, I heard a strange rattling inside of it. This immediately had me scratching my head. Once I pulled the case out of the box, I found these two strange plastic plugs. Now I feel the need to solve the mystery! Let’s tear apart the case! Jackpot.

I found where they came from. All of the top and front mesh is held in by 4 of these plastic plugs and a couple dabs of hot glue. What is the mesh made out of? I am mostly certain that it is paper-thin plastic mesh, but that is cool. Not much to think about other than where to put those plastic plugs that fall out during shipping,

Well, I decided to tear it down even further. In the next photo, you will see the case broken down into primary bits minus the sides.the main chassis is actually quite sturdy with a very nice design which includes rubber cable pass-thru ports, soft anti-vibration mounts for the power supply and dust filters for both the PSU and the front of the case.

The PSU dust filter is fantastic! It is a classic slide-in that can be accessed without having to disassemble anything. Just slide out, clean and put back in. I wish I could say the same about the front. The front dust filter is nothing more than a piece of the same flimsy plastic mesh tucked into the top and front panels. It has no slide in/out mechanism and in order to clean it, you will haveto remove the front panel. Meh. No big deal, right?…

I wish I could agree with that statement, but in order to discuss it, I need to show it to you first. The front panel (made of molded ABS plastic) is also the mounting point for 2x USB 3.0 ports, as well as the power/reset rocker switch, headphone jack, mic jack and a stealthy button on the side to control the pulsing LEDs for the front “reservoir”. Well why exactly is this an issue? If you are anything like me and are super OCD about cable management, all of the ports are built directly into the front panel.

What exactly does this mean? Well, it means that if you do a super tight, clean set of cable runs from the front panel, you risk pulling cables, detaching solder points, etc every time you need to yank the front panel to clean a piece of mod mesh disguised as a dust filter. All of that said, the cabling of the front panel I/O is done quite well allowing for those clean runs I mentioned previously. -0.25 stars for not having a slide-out filter on the front or a frame-mounted front I/O system.

Nextly, I wanted to see exactly what the front breathing LED setup consisted of. After removing all of the central accent cladding (painted metal), I found a rather intricate heat-shrink-ed tube system to diffuse light across both sides of the front “reservoir”. Quite genius actually! I’ll give DeepCool kudos for making these diffuser tubes rather than just slapping diodes thru holes in the plastic.

The side panels are OK at best. The rear panel falls somewhere between flimsy and solid which is no biggie. The windowed panel, however, is quite disappointing. It is nothing more than a piece of extruded plastic. Be sure you clean this with the best microfiber cloth you have. Otherwise, you are guaranteed swirl marks. -0.5 stars for this.

I guess by now you are wondering why I keep putting “reservoir” in quotations. Let’s talk about the cooling solution next. The Genome AIO is based off of the Captain 360 with some decorative tweaks. The radiator is an aluminum 360mm (please correct me if I am wrong about this being aluminum) with the CPU block/pump coming from two ports on the left side, while the “reservoir” comes from the two ports on the right side.

This means that the radiator is actually dual-channeled with liquid flowing one way in half (lengthwise) and the opposite way (also lengthwise) on the other half. Pretty cool if you ask me! The radiator itself is molded with barbs and sealed to the 1/2″ id matte black tubing, so the idea of using this rad to expand is going to be difficult.

It could be done, but the tubing will need to be cut (at least on the cpu block side) and re-barbed w/ 3/8″ barb fittings or quick disconnects. Also, remember that the radiator is aluminum, so as of right now, the only things you could use it with anyways would be the all-aluminum fluid gaming setups made by EK. Putting alum with copper or brass would wreak havoc on the Ph of the fluid and all bits involved in the loop.

The CPU block is quite beautiful. It includes a turn of hard tubing, a Breathing light and a fairly silent pump I can only assume is similar to a classic DC/LT low-profile pump. The contact cold plate is full copper and polished to a mirror shine w/ no blemishes (on the one I received). The CPU block is, however, where I deducted an additional 0.25 stars. The control/power cable for the pump is only a 3-pin.

I would have liked to see a 4-pin PWM since most ATX motherboards have a PWM pump header these days. You can pick up a 3-4pin adapter cable and correct this yourself, but you shouldn’t have to. The case comes with the cpu block mounted to this crazy large universal back plate drilled for modern Intel and AMD boards (including Ryzen AM4), as well as thermal paste and a giant sack of mounting bars based on your application. The same bag also has a cool Gamer Storm case badge which is good for an extra 1% overclock! OK… I am joking about that last part, but the case badge is a nice touch.

So why have I been putting “reservoir” in quotations? Well, here it is. The reservoir isn’t really a reservoir in traditional terms. The outer tube is a beautiful piece of glass The internal helix is bent from the same hard-line used on the CPU block, but that is where it’s resemblance of a reservoir ends. The glass cylinder is not filled with fluid.

The fluid actually only flows inside the helix. You won’t actually get much more than 30-40ml (tops) inside the reservoir. It is, however, the only piece on this loop that actually has G1/4″ ports, so you can actually re-use it if you choose to convert to a custom loop down the road. Though, if you do opt to do so, I highly suggest a second reservoir to sit before your pump. Otherwise, you’ll be trying to fill a loop 300-400 measured drops of liquid at a time.

Backing up to my critique about the 3-pin plug on the cpu waterblock, I will reverse that gripe when it comes to the fans. Each of the three radiator fans are very well made with 4-pin PWM plugs to go into the included 4-port PWM splitter. Each fan also has four LEDs inserted at each corner which are quite bright and add a very nice top-down illumination to your build. The rear exhaust fan, on the other hand, is a generic black fan that just does not fit in with the aesthetics of the case. I suggest removing it and getting something that looks nicer, or just leaving it off.

I know you are questioning me now: If I leave the rear fan off ,won’t my system be nothing but negative pressure? It absolutely will. The front panel of the case has mounting points for 2x 120mm fans or one giant 200mm fan. Whichever route you go, I suggest one or the other to get a bit more ambient air entering the case to feed your components and VGA.

Speaking of VGA, we’ll end on this note. The case has seven rear expansion slots, as well as 2 vertical expansion slots. The case also comes with the needed PCIe riser mount and cable. The case also has mounting points for 2x 2.5″ SSD and a drive cage for two large HDD’s

Overall, this is a pretty cool case! The design and options are on-point. I would suggest this case for anybody looking to get into watercooling, but I will also add a caveat to that. Any time you add water to an electrical system, you run the risk of leaks and failure. When you get your case, hook your pump to a power source before putting it on your CPU. Run it for a day and be sure that it is not leaking.

Computer full form

I hope this will be helpful for anybody considering this case.

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